Car Audio Wiring Diagram Guide: Wire Colors, Amp Wiring, LOCs, Remote Wire, and Install Tips
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Car Audio Wiring Diagram Guide: Amp Wiring, Wire Colors, LOCs, Big 3 Kits, Batteries & Alternators
If you have ever pulled a radio out, looked under the hood, or stared at a pile of wire on the floor wondering what actually goes where, this guide is for you.
Car audio wiring can look confusing at first, but most systems are built around the same basic idea:
The radio sends signal.
The amplifier makes power.
The wiring safely connects everything together.
The electrical system supports the load.
That sounds simple, but this is also where a lot of systems go wrong.
A customer may buy a strong amplifier, good subwoofers, nice speakers, a lithium battery, a high output alternator, or a full bass setup, but if the wiring is weak, undersized, messy, or unsafe, the system will never perform the way it should.
Bad wiring can cause voltage drop, weak bass, amplifier clipping, alternator whine, blown fuses, hot terminals, ground noise, battery drain, protect mode, and a lot of problems that people end up blaming on the equipment.
At Audio Sellerz, we see this every day. Wiring is not the boring part of the build. Wiring is the foundation.
Before we break everything down, here are the main wiring and electrical categories you may need when planning a system:
Shop car audio wire:
https://audiosellerz.com/collections/wire
Shop amp kits:
https://audiosellerz.com/collections/amp-kits
Shop Big 3 kits:
https://audiosellerz.com/collections/big-3-kits
Shop Brand X high output alternators:
https://audiosellerz.com/collections/brand-x
Shop Advanced Electric sodium batteries:
https://audiosellerz.com/collections/advanced-electric
Shop Limitless Lithium batteries:
https://audiosellerz.com/collections/limitless-lithium
Shop fuse blocks and fusing:
https://audiosellerz.com/collections/fuse-blocks
What This Car Audio Wiring Guide Covers
This guide is built for the person wiring their first amp, the customer adding bass to a factory radio, the builder trying to clean up an install, and the basshead planning a stronger electrical setup.
We are going to cover:
- Basic car audio wiring diagram layout
- How signal, power, ground, and remote wire work
- Common car stereo wire colors
- Amp wiring basics
- Power wire and fuse placement
- Ground wire and ground location
- Remote turn-on wire
- RCA cable routing
- LOCs and factory radio installs
- Speaker wire and polarity
- Amp kits and what should be included
- Big 3 upgrade wiring
- Brand X alternators and charging wire
- Advanced Electric sodium batteries
- Limitless Lithium batteries
- Common car audio wiring mistakes
- Wiring checklist before turning the system on
The goal is not to make this overly complicated. The goal is to help you understand what each wire does, why it matters, and how to plan a safer, cleaner, better-performing car audio system.
Basic Car Audio Wiring Diagram Layout
Most car audio systems are easier to understand when you separate them into a few paths.
1. Signal Path
The signal path carries the music.
Basic signal path:
Radio or factory source
→ RCA cables or LOC
→ amplifier
→ speakers or subwoofers
If you are using an aftermarket radio, the signal usually comes from RCA outputs.
If you are keeping the factory radio, the signal may come from speaker wires and go through an LOC, DSP, or amplifier with high-level inputs.
2. Power Path
The power path feeds the amplifier.
Basic power path:
Battery positive
→ fuse holder near battery
→ power wire
→ amplifier power input
The power wire is what gives the amplifier the current it needs. If the power wire is too small, the amplifier may starve for current, voltage can drop, and performance can suffer.
Shop wire here:
https://audiosellerz.com/collections/wire
Shop amp kits here:
https://audiosellerz.com/collections/amp-kits
3. Ground Path
The ground path completes the circuit.
Basic ground path:
Amplifier ground input
→ short ground wire
→ clean bare metal chassis ground
A bad ground can cause all kinds of issues. It can make the amp shut off, create noise, heat up connections, cause voltage drop, or make the system act random.
The ground wire should normally be the same size as the power wire.
4. Remote Turn-On Path
The remote wire tells the amplifier when to turn on.
Basic remote path:
Radio remote output
→ remote turn-on wire
→ amplifier remote input
The remote wire does not power the amplifier. It only wakes the amp up. The large power wire is what actually feeds the amplifier.
Simple Amp Wiring Diagram
Here is the basic idea for a single amplifier install:
Battery positive
→ main fuse near battery
→ power wire through vehicle
→ amplifier 12V power input
Amplifier ground input
→ short ground wire
→ clean bare metal chassis ground
Radio RCA output or LOC output
→ RCA cables
→ amplifier RCA input
Radio remote output
→ remote turn-on wire
→ amplifier remote input
Amplifier speaker output
→ speaker wire
→ subwoofer or speakers
That is the heart of most amplifier installs.
Once you understand power, ground, signal, remote, and speaker output, car audio wiring becomes a lot easier to plan.
Common Car Stereo Wire Colors
Wire colors can vary by vehicle, especially with factory wiring. Do not trust wire color alone on factory harnesses unless you have verified the wiring with a proper diagram or meter.
That said, many aftermarket radio harnesses use common colors.
| Wire Color | Common Function |
|---|---|
| Yellow | Constant 12 volt power |
| Red | Switched 12 volt / ignition |
| Black | Ground |
| Blue | Power antenna |
| Blue with white stripe | Amplifier remote turn-on |
| Orange or orange/white | Illumination / dimmer |
| White | Front left speaker positive |
| White with black stripe | Front left speaker negative |
| Gray | Front right speaker positive |
| Gray with black stripe | Front right speaker negative |
| Green | Rear left speaker positive |
| Green with black stripe | Rear left speaker negative |
| Purple | Rear right speaker positive |
| Purple with black stripe | Rear right speaker negative |
These colors are a good starting point for aftermarket radios. Factory wiring can be completely different depending on the vehicle, trim level, factory amplifier, premium audio system, and year.
If you are not sure, test before connecting anything.
Power Wire Basics
The main power wire runs from the battery to the amplifier.
This wire needs to be sized correctly for the amplifier’s current demand and the length of the run. A small system may be fine with 8 gauge or 4 gauge. A stronger system may need 1/0 gauge or larger.
A good power wire run should be:
- Properly sized for the amplifier
- Fused near the battery
- Protected where it passes through metal
- Routed away from sharp edges
- Secured so it does not move around
- Kept away from extreme heat when possible
- Terminated with proper ring terminals or ferrules
Do not run an unfused power wire through the vehicle. The fuse is there to protect the wire and vehicle if the power wire shorts to ground.
Shop amp kits here:
https://audiosellerz.com/collections/amp-kits
Shop wire here:
https://audiosellerz.com/collections/wire
Fuse Placement: Where Should the Fuse Go?
The main fuse should be installed close to the battery on the positive power wire.
The reason is simple:
The wire between the battery and the fuse is not protected.
If that short section of wire rubs through and touches metal before the fuse, the fuse cannot help. That is why the fuse needs to be close to the battery, mounted securely, and sized correctly for the wire and system.
A clean power wire setup should look like this:
Battery positive
→ short power wire
→ fuse holder
→ main power wire
→ amplifier
The fuse is not there just to protect the amp. It is there to protect the wire and the vehicle.
Shop fuse blocks and fusing here:
https://audiosellerz.com/collections/fuse-blocks
Ground Wire Basics
Ground wire is just as important as power wire.
A lot of people focus on the power wire and then rush the ground. That is a mistake.
The ground wire should be:
- As short as reasonably possible
- The same size as the power wire in most installs
- Connected to clean bare metal
- Tight and secure
- Free of paint, rust, seam sealer, carpet glue, and dirt
- Attached with a proper ring terminal
- Checked after install to make sure it stays tight
A bad ground can cause:
- Voltage drop
- Alternator whine
- Amp protect mode
- Hot terminals
- Weak output
- Random shutdowns
- Battery drain
- Noise through the speakers
If an amp install is acting weird, the ground is one of the first things to check.
Remote Turn-On Wire Explained
The remote turn-on wire tells the amplifier when to switch on.
It does not power the amplifier. The big power wire does that.
The remote wire is just a trigger.
When the radio turns on, it sends a small 12 volt signal through the remote wire. That signal tells the amp to wake up. When the radio shuts off, the signal goes away and the amp turns off.
If the remote wire is wrong, you may get:
- Amp has power but will not turn on
- Amp stays on after the vehicle is off
- Battery drain
- Popping noises
- Random amp behavior
- System turns on with the wrong vehicle function
On aftermarket radios, the blue/white wire is usually the amplifier remote turn-on wire.
Do not confuse it with the solid blue power antenna wire. On some radios, the solid blue wire may only be active when the tuner is on, which can make the amplifier shut off when you switch sources.
RCA Cables and Signal Wiring
RCA cables carry low-level audio signal from the radio, LOC, or DSP to the amplifier.
This is the music signal before the amplifier boosts it.
Poor RCA routing or cheap signal connections can cause:
- Alternator whine
- Buzzing
- Hiss
- Weak signal
- Intermittent audio
- Noise when the vehicle is running
- Popping sounds
A clean signal layout usually means:
- RCA cables routed away from main power wire when possible
- RCA cables not smashed under trim or seat brackets
- Signal wires secured cleanly
- No loose RCA connections
- Good ground practices throughout the system
A common install layout is to run power wire down one side of the vehicle and signal wire down the other side when possible.
That does not magically fix every noise problem, but it helps reduce the chances of noise being introduced into the signal path.
What Is an LOC?
LOC stands for line output converter.
An LOC is used when you want to add an aftermarket amplifier while keeping the factory radio.
Most factory radios do not have RCA outputs. An LOC lets you tap into speaker-level signal and convert it into a signal the amplifier can use.
Basic LOC signal path:
Factory radio speaker wires
→ LOC input
→ RCA output
→ amplifier input
You may need an LOC if:
- You are keeping the stock radio
- You are adding a sub amp to a factory system
- You are adding a 4-channel amp to a factory system
- The vehicle has no aftermarket RCA outputs
- You want to keep factory screen and controls
- The factory radio is built into the dash or vehicle settings
Some modern amplifiers and DSPs have high-level inputs built in, which can sometimes reduce the need for a separate LOC. But in many installs, a good LOC is still one of the easiest ways to add an amp cleanly.
Factory Radio vs Aftermarket Radio Wiring
Adding an amp to an aftermarket radio is usually more straightforward.
Most aftermarket radios give you:
- RCA outputs
- Remote turn-on wire
- Easier speaker wire identification
- Better signal routing options
- More control over subwoofer output
Factory radio installs can be more complicated.
A factory system may have:
- No RCA outputs
- Factory amplifier
- Factory processing
- All-pass filters
- Bass roll-off
- Active crossovers
- Noise cancellation
- Vehicle warning chimes
- Data-controlled audio functions
That does not mean you cannot add aftermarket amps to a factory system. It just means the signal side needs to be planned carefully.
For factory systems, an LOC, DSP, integration harness, or amplifier with high-level inputs may be needed.
Speaker Wire and Polarity
Speaker wire carries amplified signal from the amplifier to the speakers or subwoofers.
Polarity matters.
If one speaker is wired backward, it can play out of phase with the others. That can hurt midbass, reduce output, make the soundstage feel weird, or cause subwoofers to fight each other.
Basic speaker polarity:
Amplifier speaker positive
→ speaker positive
Amplifier speaker negative
→ speaker negative
For subwoofers with dual voice coils, wiring matters even more because the final impedance affects how the amplifier sees the load.
If the subwoofer is wired to the wrong final ohm load, the amp may make less power, overheat, go into protect, or become unstable.
Amp Kits: What Should Be Included?
An amp kit is the easiest way to get the basic wiring needed for an amplifier install.
A good amp kit may include:
- Power wire
- Ground wire
- Fuse holder
- Fuse
- Remote turn-on wire
- RCA cables
- Speaker wire
- Ring terminals
- Butt connectors or accessories
- Wire loom or protective pieces depending on the kit
The big thing is choosing an amp kit that matches the amplifier and build.
A small amp does not need the same wiring as a large subwoofer amplifier. A 500 watt daily setup and a 3000 watt bass build should not be wired the same way.
Shop amp kits here:
https://audiosellerz.com/collections/amp-kits
What Size Amp Kit Do You Need?
The right amp kit depends on power, wire length, amp efficiency, and whether the wire is OFC or CCA.
General starting point:
| System Power | Common Amp Kit Size |
|---|---|
| Under 500 watts RMS | 8 gauge |
| 500 to 1000 watts RMS | 4 gauge |
| 1000 to 2000 watts RMS | 1/0 gauge preferred |
| 2000+ watts RMS | 1/0 gauge or larger |
| 3000+ watts RMS | Build-specific electrical planning |
This is only a starting point. If the wire run is long, the amp is current-hungry, or future upgrades are planned, stepping up in wire size is usually smarter.
Read more here:
https://audiosellerz.com/blogs/audio-sellerz-blogs/car-audio-wire-size-guide-4-0-to-16-gauge-ofc-vs-cca
Big 3 Upgrade Wiring
The Big 3 upgrade improves the main charging and grounding paths in the vehicle.
The Big 3 usually upgrades:
- Alternator positive to battery positive
- Battery negative to chassis ground
- Engine block to chassis ground
This helps reduce restriction in the factory charging wiring and gives the electrical system a stronger path to move current.
A Big 3 upgrade is especially important if you are running:
- A larger amplifier
- A high output alternator
- Extra batteries
- Lithium or sodium battery support
- Multiple amplifiers
- Big subwoofer power
- A system with voltage drop
Shop Big 3 kits here:
https://audiosellerz.com/collections/big-3-kits
A basic Big 3 layout looks like this:
Alternator positive
→ upgraded wire
→ battery positive
Battery negative
→ upgraded wire
→ chassis ground
Engine block
→ upgraded wire
→ chassis ground
The Big 3 does not replace the need for proper amplifier wiring. It supports the vehicle’s charging side so the system can perform better.
Brand X Alternators and Wiring Support
When a system gets large enough, the factory alternator may not be able to keep up.
That is where a high output alternator becomes part of the wiring and electrical plan.
A stronger alternator can help support:
- Bigger amplifiers
- Better charging stability
- Less voltage drop
- Stronger battery recovery
- More consistent demo performance
- Systems with added lithium, AGM, or sodium batteries
Brand X alternators are a strong choice for builds that need more charging output. But the alternator is only one part of the system. The wiring has to support it.
If you upgrade the alternator but leave weak factory charging wire in place, you may still have restriction, voltage drop, or heat.
For high output alternator installs, plan on proper Big 3 wiring and correctly sized charge cable.
Shop Brand X alternators here:
https://audiosellerz.com/collections/brand-x
Shop Big 3 kits here:
https://audiosellerz.com/collections/big-3-kits
Advanced Electric Sodium Batteries in Car Audio Wiring
Advanced Electric sodium batteries are used in car audio builds that need serious current support, stable voltage, and strong electrical performance.
When adding sodium battery support to a build, wiring matters even more.
A battery upgrade does not fix bad wire, weak grounds, loose terminals, or poor fuse placement. The battery can only support the system properly if the current has a clean path to move.
When planning a sodium battery setup, think about:
- Main power wire size
- Ground wire size
- Alternator charging support
- Big 3 wiring
- Fuse placement
- Battery location
- Busbar or distribution layout
- Safe terminal connections
- Matching the battery to the system demand
Shop Advanced Electric sodium batteries here:
https://audiosellerz.com/collections/advanced-electric
Limitless Lithium Batteries in Car Audio Wiring
Limitless Lithium batteries are another popular option for car audio electrical upgrades.
Lithium battery support can help with voltage stability, current delivery, and reserve power, but the wiring still has to be right.
When planning a lithium-supported system, make sure the install includes:
- Correct charge voltage planning
- Proper fuse protection
- Proper battery mounting
- Correct wire size
- Good grounds
- Strong alternator support when needed
- Clean distribution to amplifiers
- Safe cable routing
Lithium is not a shortcut around poor wiring. It is an electrical upgrade that works best when the full system is planned correctly.
Shop Limitless Lithium here:
https://audiosellerz.com/collections/limitless-lithium
Battery-to-Amplifier Wiring
If you add a rear battery, lithium battery, sodium battery, or secondary power bank, the wiring from that battery to the amplifier matters.
A common layout may look like this:
Front battery / alternator
→ fused power wire
→ rear battery or power bank
→ fused distribution
→ amplifier
Grounding may vary depending on the build, but the goal is always the same:
Give the system a clean, low-resistance path for current.
Important things to remember:
- Fuse power wire where needed
- Keep grounds strong and clean
- Use proper wire size
- Use good terminals
- Avoid loose battery connections
- Protect wire from rubbing or sharp metal
- Do not mix random wire sizes without planning
A rear battery can help a system, but only when it is wired correctly.
Single Amp Wiring Example
A basic single amp setup may look like this:
Battery positive
→ fuse holder near battery
→ power wire
→ amplifier power input
Amplifier ground
→ ground wire
→ clean chassis ground
Radio RCA output
→ RCA cables
→ amplifier RCA input
Radio remote wire
→ amplifier remote input
Amplifier speaker output
→ subwoofer or speakers
This is the most common type of install for someone adding a subwoofer amplifier.
For this kind of setup, an amp kit is usually the easiest starting point.
Shop amp kits here:
https://audiosellerz.com/collections/amp-kits
Factory Radio Sub Amp Wiring Example
If you are keeping the factory radio and adding a subwoofer amp, the layout may look like this:
Factory radio or factory speaker wires
→ LOC or high-level input
→ RCA or signal output
→ subwoofer amplifier
→ subwoofer
Then power side:
Battery positive
→ fuse
→ power wire
→ amplifier
Amplifier ground
→ chassis ground
Remote turn-on may come from:
- LOC remote output
- Add-a-fuse ignition source
- Factory amp turn-on wire
- Aftermarket integration harness
- Signal-sensing amplifier or LOC
Factory radio installs can work great, but signal and remote turn-on need to be handled correctly.
Multi-Amp Wiring Example
A multi-amp system may include a subwoofer amp and a 4-channel speaker amp.
Basic layout:
Battery positive
→ main fuse
→ power wire
→ distribution block
→ fused outputs
→ amplifiers
Ground side:
Amplifier grounds
→ ground block or separate clean grounds
→ chassis ground
Signal side:
Radio, LOC, or DSP
→ RCA cables
→ sub amp and speaker amp
Remote side:
Remote output
→ remote wire
→ both amplifiers
Multi-amp systems need cleaner planning because there are more connections, more current demand, more signal cables, and more chances for noise or voltage drop.
This is where proper distribution blocks, fuse blocks, wire size, and grounds matter.
Shop fuse blocks here:
https://audiosellerz.com/collections/fuse-blocks
Common Car Audio Wiring Mistakes
Mistake 1: Running Wire That Is Too Small
Undersized wire can cause voltage drop, heat, weak output, and amplifier stress.
Do not size wire based only on what physically fits in the amp. Size it based on current demand, wire length, and future upgrade plans.
Mistake 2: Skipping the Fuse Near the Battery
The fuse protects the wire and vehicle. Do not run unfused power wire through the vehicle.
Mistake 3: Using a Bad Ground
Paint, rust, loose bolts, thin metal, and weak connection points can all cause problems.
A ground should be clean, tight, and sized correctly.
Mistake 4: Confusing Power Antenna Wire with Remote Turn-On
The solid blue wire may be for power antenna. The blue/white wire is usually amp remote turn-on on aftermarket radios.
Using the wrong one can cause the amp to turn off when changing radio sources.
Mistake 5: Routing RCA Cables Poorly
RCA cables should be protected and routed cleanly. Try to keep signal wiring away from high-current power wire when possible.
Mistake 6: Tapping the Wrong Speaker Wires for an LOC
If you tap the wrong wires, the signal may be weak, crossed over, out of phase, or missing bass.
Factory systems can be tricky. Test before connecting.
Mistake 7: Ignoring Speaker Polarity
Backwards polarity can hurt output and sound quality. This is especially important with subwoofers and multi-speaker systems.
Mistake 8: Upgrading the Battery But Not the Wiring
A better battery cannot overcome weak wiring. If the wire and ground path are poor, the system will still be restricted.
Mistake 9: Adding a High Output Alternator Without Big 3 Wiring
A high output alternator needs the wiring to support it. Big 3 wiring helps the charging system move current more effectively.
Shop Brand X alternators here:
https://audiosellerz.com/collections/brand-x
Shop Big 3 kits here:
https://audiosellerz.com/collections/big-3-kits
Mistake 10: Twisting Wires Together and Taping Them
Twisted-and-taped connections are not a long-term solution.
Use proper connectors, crimping, soldering where appropriate, heat shrink, ferrules, ring terminals, and clean termination methods.
Wiring Checklist Before Turning the System On
Before powering up the system, check the install carefully.
Use this checklist:
- Main power wire is fused near the battery
- Power wire is not rubbing on sharp metal
- Wire is protected where it passes through metal
- Ground wire is short, clean, tight, and properly sized
- Power and ground terminals are tight
- Remote wire is connected to the correct source
- RCA cables are fully seated
- Speaker wires are connected with correct polarity
- LOC wiring is verified if using a factory radio
- Fuses are the correct type and rating
- Battery terminals are tight
- No loose strands of wire are exposed
- Amplifier gain is turned down before setup
- Subwoofer final ohm load is correct for the amp
- System voltage is checked before playing hard
Do not rush the first power-up. A few extra minutes checking wiring can save an amplifier, battery, fuse holder, subwoofer, or vehicle harness.
Helpful Internal Guides
If you are planning a full car audio install, these guides can help:
Car Audio Wire Size Guide:
https://audiosellerz.com/blogs/audio-sellerz-blogs/car-audio-wire-size-guide-4-0-to-16-gauge-ofc-vs-cca
Car Audio Wire Gauge Chart + Fuse Guide:
https://audiosellerz.com/blogs/audio-sellerz-blogs/car-audio-wire-gauge-chart-fuse-guide
Car Audio Amp Kits Guide:
https://audiosellerz.com/blogs/audio-sellerz-blogs/car-audio-amp-kits-cca-vs-ofc-wire-size-guide
Big 3 Upgrade Guide:
https://audiosellerz.com/blogs/audio-sellerz-blogs/do-you-really-need-the-big-3-upgrade-here-s-the-truth
Car Audio Wiring FAQ
What is the basic wiring diagram for a car audio amp?
A basic amp wiring diagram includes battery power wire, a fuse near the battery, amplifier ground wire, RCA or LOC signal input, remote turn-on wire, and speaker wire from the amplifier to the speakers or subwoofers.
Do I need an amp kit?
For most basic amplifier installs, yes. An amp kit gives you the main wire and accessories needed to install the amplifier. Larger or custom systems may need additional wire, fuse blocks, distribution blocks, or Big 3 wiring.
Shop amp kits here:
https://audiosellerz.com/collections/amp-kits
Where does the fuse go for an amp?
The main fuse should be installed close to the battery on the positive power wire.
Does the ground wire need to be the same size as the power wire?
In most amplifier installs, yes. The ground wire should usually match the power wire.
What does the remote wire do?
The remote wire tells the amplifier when to turn on and off. It does not power the amp.
What is an LOC in car audio?
An LOC, or line output converter, converts speaker-level signal from a factory radio into a signal that an aftermarket amplifier can use.
Do I need the Big 3 upgrade?
If you are running a larger amplifier, high output alternator, added batteries, lithium, sodium, or you are seeing voltage drop, the Big 3 upgrade is strongly recommended.
Shop Big 3 kits here:
https://audiosellerz.com/collections/big-3-kits
Do I need a high output alternator?
If your system pulls more current than the factory alternator can support, a high output alternator may be needed. This is common with larger subwoofer systems, added batteries, and high-power amplifiers.
Shop Brand X alternators here:
https://audiosellerz.com/collections/brand-x
Can lithium or sodium batteries fix voltage drop?
They can help support the electrical system, but they do not fix bad wiring. Proper wire size, grounds, fusing, alternator support, and Big 3 wiring still matter.
Shop Advanced Electric sodium batteries here:
https://audiosellerz.com/collections/advanced-electric
Shop Limitless Lithium here:
https://audiosellerz.com/collections/limitless-lithium
Final Thoughts: Wiring Is the Foundation of the Whole System
Car audio wiring is not just about making the amp turn on.
It affects performance, safety, reliability, voltage, sound quality, and how much room the system has to grow.
A clean wiring plan should include the right amp kit, proper power wire, solid ground, correct fuse placement, clean signal wiring, correct remote turn-on, and electrical support that matches the system.
For smaller systems, a quality amp kit may be enough. For stronger builds, you may need Big 3 wiring, a Brand X high output alternator, Advanced Electric sodium battery support, Limitless Lithium battery support, fuse blocks, distribution blocks, and larger wire.
Do it right the first time.
Shop car audio wire:
https://audiosellerz.com/collections/wire
Shop amp kits:
https://audiosellerz.com/collections/amp-kits
Shop Big 3 kits:
https://audiosellerz.com/collections/big-3-kits
Shop Brand X alternators:
https://audiosellerz.com/collections/brand-x
Shop Advanced Electric:
https://audiosellerz.com/collections/advanced-electric
Shop Limitless Lithium:
https://audiosellerz.com/collections/limitless-lithium
Shop fuse blocks:
https://audiosellerz.com/collections/fuse-blocks
