Do You Really Need the “Big 3” Upgrade? Here’s the Truth
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If you’ve been around the car audio world for any amount of time, you’ve probably heard people mention “the Big 3 upgrade.” It comes up in every voltage-drop conversation or wiring question—but what exactly is it, and do you really need it? Let’s break it down the same way we do for our customers every day at Audio Sellerz, your go-to car audio shop in Ohio and online source for high-quality parts.
🔌 What Is the Big 3 Upgrade?
The Big 3 upgrade replaces or supplements three main factory cables in your vehicle with thicker, higher-quality wire. These cables form the foundation of your electrical system and are crucial to every car audio power wire setup:
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Alternator positive to battery positive
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Battery negative to chassis ground
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Battery negative to engine block (or engine ground to chassis)
Most stock wiring is too small to handle serious current flow. Once you start adding amplifiers, subwoofers, or upgraded lighting, those thin wires can’t keep up. Performing the Big 3 upgrade reduces resistance, improves conductivity, and keeps your system stable when the bass hits.
⚡ Why the Big 3 Upgrade Matters for Car Audio
Low voltage can cause:
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Headlights and dash lights to dim
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Amplifiers to clip or go into protection
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Weak bass and distortion
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Shortened lifespan for amps and batteries
A Big 3 wiring upgrade helps fix voltage drop and improve overall performance. You’re not just upgrading wire—you’re strengthening the foundation of your entire car audio system.
🧰 When You Should Do the Big 3 Upgrade
If your setup is pushing 1000 watts RMS or more, the Big 3 upgrade becomes a must. It’s one of the simplest, most effective upgrades you can do, especially before adding bigger amps, batteries, or a Brand X alternator.
Think of it like upgrading your home’s electrical panel before plugging in more appliances—stronger power demands better wiring.
🔧 What Wire Should You Use for the Big 3?
Choosing the right wire makes all the difference:
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OFC (oxygen-free copper) is always the best option. It handles more current, resists corrosion, and lasts longer.
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CCA (copper-clad aluminum) can be used, but it’s not ideal under the hood. It’s cheaper and lighter but less efficient and more prone to oxidation.
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Gauge size: between 4 gauge and 0 gauge depending on your system.
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0 gauge is recommended for any aftermarket alternator or high-output setup.
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4 gauge works for most vehicles with a stock alternator or moderate systems.
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If you can, go with OFC 0 gauge wire—it gives better power handling, cleaner voltage, and longer life.
At Audio Sellerz, we carry everything you need for a car audio wiring upgrade done right, including Sky High Car Audio OFC wire, Brand X alternators, and all the terminals, heat shrink, and accessories to complete your installation.
🚀 The Real-World Results
After completing the Big 3 install, most customers notice immediate improvements:
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Stronger voltage at idle and under load
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Louder, cleaner bass
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Cooler-running amplifiers
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No more dimming headlights
The Big 3 is one of the most affordable and effective car audio upgrades you can make before spending money on more equipment.
🏁 Final Thoughts from Audio Sellerz
At Audio Sellerz, we don’t just sell gear—we live car audio every day. We’ve installed and tested these systems ourselves in both demo vehicles and daily drivers.
We’ve installed hundreds of Big 3 kits over the years for a reason—it’s literally one of the first parts in your car audio system. It doesn’t always have to be your starting point, but it’s always a smart move when you’re running serious power.
Start strong, wire it right, and your system will thank you every time the bass drops.